Swell Characteristics
Learn how swell height, period, direction, angle, power, and consistency influence wave size, shape, speed, and surfability at the coast.
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How the Power of a Swell Affects the Waves
Swell power is one of the main reasons a surf forecast can look straightforward on paper but feel completely different in the water. A buoy might show a…
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How Swell Period Affects the Surf
Swell period is one of the most important numbers in a surf forecast, yet it’s often overlooked. Most surfers look first at swell height, but the seconds between…
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How Swell Direction Affects the Surf
Swell direction is one of the most important factors in surf forecasting. It decides which beaches wake up, which points peel, and which reefs stay inexplicably flat while…
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Wind Swells and Ground Swells Explained
Every surfable wave begins with wind blowing over water, but not every swell arrives at the beach in the same form. Some swells are short-period, choppy, and produced…